April/May 2008

BUSINESS OF WEARABLES

The Big Questions

The eco-train’s not stopping any time soon, so make sure you know the answers to your client’s green questions.

By Dan Jellinek

Remember the ad specialty industry pie? That pie was a one-dimensional representation of product percentages that appeared frequently in industry publications, distributor sales manuals and occasionally in the back pages of supplier catalogs. We all know the slices; you know, the slice of writing instruments, the slice of awards, the slice of glassware and so forth. Years ago, the new – and now largest – slice was just an asterisk carried by a company called K-Studio and a hat company somewhere in the South that placed patches on semi-rigid high crown caps.

Now wearables dominate our marketplace, making up about 30% of all ad specialty sales. And, there’s always something new: Right now, you’re probably getting more and more questions from customers about “eco-friendly” products or manufacturing or decorating processes. I’ll offer you perspective on how to answer some of these
bigger, overarching questions.

While organic cotton is the preferred crop for many manufacturers, bamboo, corn, hemp and soy are growing in leaps and bounds.

1. What kinds of natural or organically grown fabrics are available? While organic cotton is the preferred crop for many manufacturers, bamboo, corn, hemp and soy are growing in leaps and bounds as the eco-friendly movement grows. Here’s a basic explanation of each.

• Bamboo: Bamboo pulp is converted into fibers to create fabric that’s extra-soft and very durable. Its natural properties make it antimicrobial, UV resistant and breathable. Bamboo requires no pesticides to grow, and is one of the fastest-growing plants in the world. The bamboo used for fabric is commonly known as Moso and can reach a mature height of 75 feet in just 45 to 60 days.

• Corn: Fabric from corn is created when dextrose pulled from it is fermented to produce lactic acid, which is converted to fabric once the water is removed. Corn-based fabric has excellent moisture-wicking properties, UV resistance and low odor retention. It’s also stain resistant, experiences minimal shrinkage and pilling, and is biodegradable and compostable.

• Hemp: Three times stronger than cotton and easy to grow, hemp doesn’t require fertilizer or pesticides. It’s also antimicrobial, UV resistant and breathable. It’s not as soft as cotton, but in a blend it can add durability to a garment.

• Organic cotton: The only difference between organic cotton and standard cotton is that organic cotton is grown without the use of pesticides or chemical additives. It’s also grown in soil that has been chemical free for at least three years. Several levels of organic cotton exist, and each presents low impact to the environment.

• Soy: Soy is made from the byproducts of soybean crops. This fabric has a soft, smooth hand and contains natural antibacterial agents. It has the same moisture-absorption properties as cotton, but with better moisture transmission, for drier, more comfortable garments.

Our customers want reassurance that the products they’re using as promotional products are indeed verifiable as eco-friendly promotions.

And, according to one supplier I spoke with, even polyester can be eco-friendly. This may be a tough sell to your customers, however, there are some valid points; for example, by using polyester the life of our goods in general is extended since it is durable and easy care.

2. Is that supplier really offering “eco-conscious” products? So, what does that mean exactly? Without clear industry definitions, “eco-conscious” or “eco-friendly” can mean different things – and can be dictated by buyers who might have a specific set of requirements for “eco-wear.” Distributors have to understand what each individual supplier means when it says its products are eco-friendly, so ask questions about the materials used in the garments and the processes used to make them.

More and more suppliers offer wearables and accessories made from natural fabrics or recycled materials, so ask your current suppliers what they offer. Don’t be afraid to branch out to new suppliers either. As an example, one supplier of eco-friendly wearables offers soy, bamboo and organic cotton garments.

This idea also applies to the decorator you use, whether it’s screen-printing, embroidery or other processes. For example, ask your decorator if he’s using eco-friendly inks. Finally, take advantage of the next big trade show you can get to and make it your mission to search out eco-wear. Some embroidery supplies and thread companies are also offering more eco-conscious threads and backings.

3. What are the best screen-printing or ink-jetting processes for the earth? Some screen printers are now using soy- and water-based inks. Such inks can mitigate negative chemicals that are released into the environment through the printing process. Again, you’ll have to ask for specifics from your decorator to know what inks they use and how they affect the environment; you may find out that using eco-friendly inks hasn’t been a priority for them. Also talk with your decorator about what kinds of inks they’re using in their direct-to-garment printers.

If your customer wants assurance of eco-conscious decorating, you may have to work with different decorators than you have been. You may also want to ask your decorator for samples of garments printed with soy- or water-based inks that you can give your customer to wear and wash. At the very least, you should have samples that you can show to customers to look at and feel.

4. How do I know a supplier’s products aren’t made using child labor overseas? This isn’t an eco-friendly question per se, but if buyers are concerned about environmental issues, they’re likely to be concerned with social compliance issues. I’d ask this question of your suppliers in a straightforward manner and make sure that the company principals, who must back up their claims, verify the answer. The bottom line is that your suppliers should know whether or not their overseas sources use child labor.

If I need to verify a new supplier, I consult with our vendor relations experts for additional verification on such matters. In addition, in some cases such as with Proposition 65 (Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986) questions, I’ve directed my customer to the policy statements on suppliers’ Web sites. I’ve also spoken to the suppliers’ quality control managers and even offered to have them speak directly or on a conference call basis to my clients.

How you can learn more
Want to learn more about eco-friendliness or see who’s certifying your supplier’s organic apparel? The following Web sites are dedicated to the green movement and show you what to look for in eco-friendly products and companies.

• www.ota.com. The Organic Trade Association is a membership-based association that focuses on the organic business community of North America.
• www.organicexchange.org. The Organic Exchange is a resource for companies and consumers interested in organic cotton.
• www.treehugger.com. Affiliated with the Discovery Channel, this media outlet is dedicated to driving sustainability mainstream.
• www.bluesign.com. This is an independent standard designed to monitor and certify every aspect of apparel production from the initial product to the end-user.
• www.earthlab.com. This multimedia platform provides a practical guide to living green.
Through your research, you’ll be able to compile a short list of wearables suppliers that are genuine in their commitment to the environment and back up the authenticity of their eco-products 100%. Your credibility with your clients will be protected and you’ll become their trusted source of such products. Our customers want reassurance that the products they’re using as promotional products are indeed verifiable as eco-friendly promotions.

 

Catch the Sale Your client might think their logo or artwork should be imprinted the same way everyone else does it. How about shaking it up with a new style? Jeff Anderson, sales manager for Promopeddler.com (asi/300367), wanted to create a fantastic giveaway for the Alaska Division of the National Fish and Wildlife Habitat Restoration Conference. The organization wanted a messenger bag imprinted with a reproduction of a painting of endangered fish. Simply slapping the art on the side of the bag seemed boring to Anderson. Instead, Anderson convinced the vendor to create a bag imprinted all over, something they had never done before. “The front, sides, bottom, back – we imprinted everything up to the zipper,” he says. The main art and a couple of sponsor names were imprinted on the side over the background print. The resulting bag impressed the end-users so much that Anderson received calls from people nationwide, saying that they loved the bags and would use and keep them. The supplier also featured the bag in its catalog as a sample of its best work. “To me, it became kind of a personal challenge,” Anderson says. “Ninety-nine percent of what we do is, someone calls and says they want a logo on something and we imprint it the same way over and over. If you really want to get after a sale, don’t fall into the same rut and present it in the same way as everyone else.” – DJS